Chichimecas Restaurant

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The New York Times Review

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CHICHIMECAS is a Mexican restaurant with a difference. Its two-story, cream-colored brick building, situated beside the railroad tracks in Farmingdale, was previously the home of Estelle’s Contemporary BBQ. When Chichimecas opened in late May, its owners kept the smoker, resulting in a menu of barbecue alongside the Mexican classics.

The newcomer is owned by Maria and Alejandro Gonzalez, who also own the restaurants Oaxaca and Quetzalcoatl in Huntington. The couple is from Mexico and immigrated to this country in 1989. Mr. Gonzalez is the chef at Chichimecas, assisted by Miguel Flores, who previously cooked at Oaxaca.

Chichimecas was a term used by the Aztecs to describe a group of indigenous peoples in Mexico; they preserved food by smoking, Mr. Gonzalez said, making Chichimecas a good name for a restaurant serving smoked meat.

The first floor is occupied mainly by the bar; most of the seating is on the second floor. Both spaces feature stucco walls, painted dark blue downstairs and a combination of white and blue upstairs. The walls are dotted with colorful paintings. Tables are topped with brightly colored, striped serapes, protected by white… Read More…